Editore"s Note
Tilting at Windmills

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January 11, 2006
By: Jonathan Dworkin

Jonathan Dworkin, formerly of the blog Aspasia, is a medical student in his final year at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York. For the past year he has organized a collaboration between Kurdish and American doctors with the twin goals of better defining the long-term consequences of Baathist chemical attacks on the Kurdish civilian population of Halabja and advocating for increased access to resources for the survivors. Jonathan is travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan from January to March of 2006 and will be sending occasional dispatches about his travels to the Washington Monthly. Here's his first one.


FIRST IMPRESSIONS....Whats the Kurdish word for chutzpah? I want to know after arriving at my window seat on Air Kurdistan and finding an old woman resting comfortably in my chair. I point to my ticket and act confused, but she just smiles serenely. Its ok, she says, indicating the middle chair. The game repeats itself throughout the airplane, with arguments breaking out in a few places. Midway through the flight, when the woman starts vomiting, she refuses to surrender her window seat. Instead she climbs over her neighbors and carries plastic bags to and from the bathroom. Its rudeness taken to an almost spiritual level. When we land in Erbil there is clapping and a few shouts of Kurdistan! from the passengers. Customs is a mess, with a mass of people and luggage bottlenecked behind two army checkpoints. Despite the pushiness, people are helpful and direct me to the right place. Its not until Im outside the airport that the emptiness of the place strikes me. Instead of our industrial zones there are concrete security perimeters. Instead of fences I see barbed wire sprawling around like confetti. Men with Kalashnikovs, many without uniform, greet individual passengers and race off in SUVs. Were they peshmerga, a private security detail, or just family members? The security system is a recurrent topic throughout my first day.

A driver from the Ministry of Health greets me at the airport and packs my bags into his car. As we drive I notice improvised concrete buildings everywhere. In the post-Anfal Kurdistan, this is affordable housing. We pass the regional bank, hit last year by RPG fire, and then a patch of green called Sammy Abdul Rahman Park. This is named after a KDP official who died in a suicide bombing, one of the few large incidents in the Kurdish region. When we reach Erbil International Hotel, I am struck by how out-of-place it looks. It is glass and steel on stone columns, and it looks like a toy skyscraper stuck in the mud. Dr. Ali Sindi, a Harvard educated physician at the health ministry, insists that I am safe here. But safe from what? Its a question no one seems able to answer.

In the hotel lounge theres a Kurdish version of The West Wing unfolding. Officials from political parties meet and then head to the restaurant for shisha. Wedding receptions gather, with the Kurdish men in stocky suits and bulging pink ties. The women embody modern Islam, with arms and legs covered but hair flowing. A few women use elements from the dishdasha (a colorful traditional dress), but most wear western style pants and shirts. Peshmerga search and frisk everyone who enters.

Later in the day I get bored and walk outside to the peshmerga checkpoint. I bring a book of pictures from New York and a Hersheys chocolate bar. The soldiers politely turn down the chocolate, but they are excited by the pictures of New York. Chinatown takes a minute to explain, but then there are fast exchanges in Kurdish and everyone nods approvingly. Demoway bizanum Kurdi (I want to learn Kurdish), I say. They teach me a few phrases and each shakes my hand.

Its my first day. I am exhausted, and the details of the Halabja work begin to fill my mind with petty anxieties. One thing alone seems clear: The Kurds are a people under siege. In the United States we are not. Its a distinction that will color every aspect of life here.

Jonathan Dworkin 2:24 PM Permalink | Trackbacks | Comments (44)

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Comments

Wow!

Good stuff, Kevin. Please keep these coming.

And all the best to you, Jonathan. If you need anything, speak up!

Posted by: Quaker in a Basement on January 11, 2006 at 2:48 PM | PERMALINK

The range of the Kurdish people across several countries shows how arbitrary our political boundaries are... or how some folks just got cut out of the process. Kinda like the Five Nations between the New England states and Canada.

...on ongoing conundrum.

Posted by: darryl pearce on January 11, 2006 at 2:56 PM | PERMALINK


Sorry, but I don't get how this is Bush's fault?

Where do I find something to blame on Cheney? Rumsfeld?

This sort of stuff doesn't belong here. All I want is some good old-fashioned Bush-bashing.

Posted by: howie on January 11, 2006 at 3:18 PM | PERMALINK

Wow!@ Is this fascinating@!

Jonathan, are you Kurdish yourself?

Posted by: POed Liberal on January 11, 2006 at 3:20 PM | PERMALINK

Jonathan, is this going to publication?

Posted by: POed Liberal on January 11, 2006 at 3:21 PM | PERMALINK

You should have told her you were a doctor and demanded the window seat.

If she still resisted... you should have told her you were Bush's doctor, so it is the seat... or else.

(I blame it on Bush that you didn't get your seat.)

Posted by: koreyel on January 11, 2006 at 3:22 PM | PERMALINK

Demoway bizanum Kurdi

How do you say "I want to learn to swear in Kurdish like a drunken sailor who's just learned he has the clap"?
.

Posted by: Grand Moff Texan on January 11, 2006 at 3:22 PM | PERMALINK

Sorry, but I don't get how this is Bush's fault?

Kurdistan with a chance for independence? Here's a spoon: feed yourself.
.

Posted by: Grand Moff Texan on January 11, 2006 at 3:24 PM | PERMALINK

Time to switch hands howie. It's not that you'll go blind doing it too much, it's that you'll go blind using the same hand too much.

Something to do with the lobes of the brain I understand.

From the ridiculous to the sublime, that was a riveting post, Jonathan. Looking forward to the next installments.

Posted by: trex on January 11, 2006 at 3:32 PM | PERMALINK

At least one other things is clear: things are much worse in the Sunni Triangle. I doubt you could get a commercial plane to fly in anywhere, and rude old ladies would be the least of your worries.

Posted by: contentious on January 11, 2006 at 3:32 PM | PERMALINK

I'm thinking by about the second time the old lady leaves to throw up I just move into her (my!) seat and smile serenely and say it's OK when she comes back. :-)

What do you mean by barbed wire sprawled around like confetti? I'm not picturing it.

Posted by: EmmaAnne on January 11, 2006 at 3:39 PM | PERMALINK

Excellent stuff! Looking forward to more.

And EmmaAnne - no way, I'm not sitting in some barfing old lady's seat! Them's tainted goods!

Posted by: craigie on January 11, 2006 at 3:46 PM | PERMALINK

"What do you mean by barbed wire sprawled around like confetti? I'm not picturing it."

OK, how about, "barbed wire sprawled around like giant steel streamers with sharp pointy things on them"?

Posted by: Quaker in a Basement on January 11, 2006 at 3:46 PM | PERMALINK

Wow. Powerful post, Jonathan. Keep 'em coming. And stay safe over there.

Posted by: Global Citizen on January 11, 2006 at 3:54 PM | PERMALINK

What chemicals were used in Halabja? On wikipedia it says they used mustard gas, sarin, tabun, VX, hydrogen cyanide, and white phosphorus. That just sounds stupid. Maybe it could be narrowed down if they found (and released) records from Baghdad.

Posted by: ranaaurora on January 11, 2006 at 4:18 PM | PERMALINK

At least one other things is clear: things are much worse in the Sunni Triangle. I doubt you could get a commercial plane to fly in anywhere, and rude old ladies would be the least of your worries.

You can fly commercially into Baghdad.

Posted by: Red State Mike on January 11, 2006 at 4:37 PM | PERMALINK

Looking forward to hearing more from Jonathan. Thanks for inserting his dispatches into the blog.

Posted by: marta on January 11, 2006 at 4:46 PM | PERMALINK

You can fly commercially into Baghdad.

Yep, as long as you don't mind the hair-raising evasive techniques before landing.

Seatbacks in the upright position!

Posted by: Mile High on January 11, 2006 at 4:49 PM | PERMALINK

Hey Red State Mike. How have you been?

Posted by: Global Citizen on January 11, 2006 at 5:06 PM | PERMALINK

I am guessing it wasn't chocolate that was declined, but the Hershey bar. Iraqis of my acquaintance have sophisticated taste in food, and they probably had no interest in Hershey's cocoa/wax product.

Cranky

Posted by: Cranky Observer on January 11, 2006 at 5:07 PM | PERMALINK

As for the guy who wants more Bush-bashing, you've tapped into an interesting problem: As Bush has become more about internationalism, many on the left have reacted by becoming isolationists (I've heard Democrats say "America has to take care of America's problems first").

The fact that someone who is presumably a progressive reacted to Jonathan's post by asking where's the Bush-bashing, sparks a deeply needed debate amongst progressives. In my feeling, as progressives, we must have a strong and committed internationalist agenda--one that is thorough, strong, and compassionate toward all of humanity.

It is sad to me that there are people on the left who think that a conversation about the outside world and how to help it is not worthy of conversation because it does not specifically address Bush.

Any way, keep up what you're doing Jonathan! Stay safe and keep giving us these illustrative descriptions of your experience. Also, I think you're indirectly sparking a debate that progressives need to have: are we internationalists who have an alternative agenda than that of the Bush administration (and if so, what is that agenda), or are we just interested in Bush-bashing?

Posted by: Andrew Slack on January 11, 2006 at 6:17 PM | PERMALINK

The fact that someone who is presumably a progressive reacted to Jonathan's post by asking where's the Bush-bashing

[slapping hand on forehead]

Oh my GOD Andrew, howie isn't a progressive -- he's a conservative mocking this topic because he thinks the sum total of our interests is bashing Bush.

You may want to read a little more skeptically next time.

Posted by: trex on January 11, 2006 at 6:25 PM | PERMALINK

I was recently told the story of one of the many Kurdish families living in Nashville who recently vacationed in their homeland. They startled the U.S. soldiers who thought they were participating in a reality TV show (Amazing Race). The family, including young women, felt the Kurdish area was safe and returned home unharmed.

Posted by: Reader from Nashville on January 11, 2006 at 6:45 PM | PERMALINK

So I guess the gassing of Halabja by Saddam is now an historical fact? There is, of course, the theory that Halabja was caught in Iraqi/Iranian chemical weapons crossfire. An opinion piece in the NYT of several years ago on this matter was quite convincing re the latter. Unfortunately I can't remember the author's name. Obviously, I don't have a clue as to the truth. In any case, kudos to Jonathan for what promises to be an extremely interesting personal account.

Posted by: nepeta on January 11, 2006 at 8:09 PM | PERMALINK

Hey Jonathan,
I am Kurdish from Sulaimani, which is a 4hour drive south east of Irbil. I am on a scholarship studying International Studies with a focus on nonprofit management.
I am impressed by your efforts. I have always wanted to bring that issue to international attension.
Please let me know if I can help with anything. I will graduate in May of 2006. By the way, your Kurdish is great. But I didn't understand what you wrote in the first sentence (chutzpah). you may have to respell it and I will tell you what it means. Best of luck....
Banaz

Posted by: Banaz on January 11, 2006 at 8:26 PM | PERMALINK

Hey Jonathan,
I am Kurdish from Sulaimani, which is a 4hour drive south east of Irbil. I am on a scholarship studying International Studies with a focus on nonprofit management.
I am impressed by your efforts. I have always wanted to bring that issue to international attension.
Please let me know if I can help with anything. I will graduate in May of 2006. By the way, your Kurdish is great. But I didn't understand what you wrote in the first sentence (chutzpah). you may have to respell it and I will tell you what it means. Best of luck....
Banaz

Posted by: Banaz on January 11, 2006 at 8:28 PM | PERMALINK

Wow - Jon Dworkin and Andrew Slack in the same post? Its like I'm back at Aspasia (or Brandeis)!

Posted by: Judah on January 11, 2006 at 8:33 PM | PERMALINK

Banaz: "Chutzpah" is a yiddish word that means one has unbelievable nerve; to the point of shock.

Posted by: Global Citizen on January 11, 2006 at 9:13 PM | PERMALINK

"Whats the Kurdish word for chutzpah? I want to know after arriving at my window seat on Air Kurdistan and finding an old woman resting comfortably in my chair. I point to my ticket and act confused, but she just smiles serenely. Its ok, she says, indicating the middle chair. The game repeats itself throughout the airplane, with arguments breaking out in a few places."
I had the exact same experience on Alitalia a few years back, except that a steward moved me to the back of the airplane. That told me my status, all right.

Posted by: Ron on January 11, 2006 at 9:22 PM | PERMALINK

I got into a fight on a bus in Tel Aviv with an ultra orthodox who sat down next to me and promptly lowered the window beside me. I raised it. He lowered it. I raised it again. I finally said that the morning chill bothered me, my arms were exposed, I was wearing a t-shirt.

He informed me that my bare arms were bothering him.

Posted by: Global Citizen on January 11, 2006 at 9:36 PM | PERMALINK

Kurdish for chutzpah? Kha, travel more often in lower income countries. It's called normal public transport ettiquette. In any case try, rajoulah.

This aside, "The range of the Kurdish people across several countries shows how arbitrary our political boundaries are... or how some folks just got cut out of the process. Kinda like the Five Nations between the New England states and Canada is stupid.

There are more than Kurds living in the area on the map, and the idea of a "Kurdish" nation really did not exist at the time the borders were drawn, and if one overlaid the distribution (at the time of border drawing) with others, it wouldn't look so bloody neat.

Naive expectations that one can draw perfect lines around ethnic groups in the process of self-creation are just that, simple minded and naive.

Posted by: The Lounsbury on January 11, 2006 at 10:29 PM | PERMALINK

He informed me that my bare arms were bothering him.

Posted by: Global Citizen on January 11, 2006 at 9:36 PM | PERMALINK

Well, he was probably hot.

Posted by: McAristotle on January 11, 2006 at 11:24 PM | PERMALINK

Its all Bush's fault.

The Anfal is Bush's fault 'cos Rumsfeld met Saddam and bush didn't fire him.

The lousy housing is Bush's fault 'cos they fired the secret police who worked for Saddam

Iran is Bush's fault because the CIA ignored Carter and backed the monarchy in response to secret time-travelling messages from Bush

The fall of communism is Bush's fault because he sabotaged their economy (again time-travel)

Its all Bush always. So you therefore have to accept the liberal agenda without question. That's the Democrat platform.


Posted by: McAristotle on January 11, 2006 at 11:31 PM | PERMALINK

I'll be more impressed by someone who says we needed triple the troops, if he was advocating triple the budget for defense 5 years ago.
Which is what you need to have the manpower to triple the number of troops.

Besides the script has changed, the Dhimmicrats are now saying that you can keep the peace using a small quick, reaction force based outside of Iraq and that troops on the ground or now the 'enemy;.....

Posted by: McAristotle on January 11, 2006 at 11:34 PM | PERMALINK

It's Six Nations. The Tuscarora joined the league in the 1700s, bringing the number up to six.

Posted by: aiontay on January 11, 2006 at 11:45 PM | PERMALINK

This is great! I really like news from people actually on the scene, and follow a lot of blogs from such people.

Incidentally, did Shameless Hussy ever do a writeup on her trip somewhere?

Posted by: tbrosz on January 12, 2006 at 12:28 AM | PERMALINK

McAiriheadle. Zzzzzzz...

Posted by: Kenji on January 12, 2006 at 6:30 AM | PERMALINK

Imagine if he had gone under Saddam:

I arrived in Erbil, was taken out by Saddam thugs, shot in the head and dumped in a mass grave.

Thus endeth the lesson.

Posted by: theone on January 12, 2006 at 7:33 AM | PERMALINK

What is the Kurdish word for chutzpah? Since I'll not be going there any time soon--if ever--I really don't care.

Posted by: raj on January 12, 2006 at 8:14 AM | PERMALINK

theone:

Imagine if he had gone under Saddam:

I arrived in Erbil, was taken out by Saddam thugs, shot in the head and dumped in a mass grave.

Uh, no. But thanks for revealing that you know nothing whatsoever about the middle east.

Posted by: grh on January 12, 2006 at 10:02 AM | PERMALINK

That said, Paul Bremer is apparently pretty clear in My Year in Iraq that he and Colin Powell were the real hawks in Iraq

Posted by: neo on January 12, 2006 at 10:03 AM | PERMALINK

Sounds like a lovely place. The vomit-laden airline must have been charming.

Posted by: Joe Bob Briggs on January 12, 2006 at 4:44 PM | PERMALINK

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